Using multi-point mode the camera will decide what it focuses on. Using single-point AF takes more time because you have to move the position of the focus point. When you are not used to doing this it may seem to be an unnecessary slowing down of the process of taking photos.
Yes, you can manually focus your lens. Sometimes auto-focus does not function fast enough or may not be precise. Manual focus is achieved by turning part of the lens barrel. Turn the focusing ring one way for focus further away and the other way to focus in closer. The direction you turn the ring varies with the type of camera you use.
This is another aspect of focus that you may think will slow you down. It is a good idea to practice and learn how to manually focus your lens because auto-focus is not perfect and will let you down sometimes. You also might like to use an older manual focus lens on your camera at times. Vintage manual lenses are fun to use and often cheaper. I have a number of old lenses that I love. Now many cameras have touch screen focusing which makes managing focusing very easy.
When your camera is mounted on a tripod using the monitor to focus is very easy. You can brighten up your monitor so you can see your subject more clearly. But one rule I usually stick to is: If your subject has eyes, focus on them.
The next two reasons you might be getting blurry images have nothing to do with focus. Making a poor choice of shutter speed can also result in blurry photos. There are two main reasons for this. If your subject is moving and your shutter speed is too slow, the subject will appear blurred in the photo.
The longer your shutter remains open, the greater the risk that a moving subject will blur. This type of blur is called Motion Blur. To avoid motion blur when photographing a moving subject you need to choose a faster shutter speed.
The speed your subject is moving determines what shutter speed you must use so that it appears sharp. The sprinter will move more quickly and therefore require a faster shutter speed to freeze their action. A racing car or a bird in flight will need even faster shutter speeds to have them appear sharp in your images.
Purposefully using a slow shutter speed to photograph a moving subject is also an option for creative photographers. Allowing your subject to blur conveys a sense of movement. This should be intentional and not left to chance. Look at other elements in your composition. Are they nice and sharp? If so, then you have identified the source of the blurring problem. Holding your camera steady and using a fast enough shutter speed will help you avoid blurry images. If your camera moves, even a little, as you press the shutter button your picture might turn out blurry.
How fast your shutter speed needs to be depends on how steady you can hold your camera. The weight of your camera and lens can influence this. A light camera with a short focal length lens is much easier to hold still than a big camera with a monster of a lens attached to it. Camera shake blur looks different than focus or subject movement blur. Camera shake blur looks a bit like everything in the photo is moving slightly. Blur caused by poor focus usually has a softer look to it.
There are other reasons your photos might not be sharp. These are less common and the amount of blur can be more subtle. How high this might be varies from camera to camera. Pushing the ISO to the outer limits you run the risk of poor quality photos. Digital noise becomes more apparent in photos you take using a high ISO. This can affect how sharp the photos look. This type of noise adds pixelated distortion that can blur details in a photo.
Even if you reduce the noise during post production, the photos may still look blurred. High ISO settings can also cause photos to have lower contrast and dull colors. These two things can make a photo look less sharp too. This over enlarging causes photos to appear blurred when they are actually not. Most computer programs and apps will indicate the level of zoom.
Many cameras do not. When you zoom to look at a photo close up on your camera monitor you usually have to guess how much you have enlarged it.
To do this you can follow the steps outlined in this article. Some zoom lenses and cheap fixed lenses do not always take sharp photos, even when you do focus them well. Long zooms are more likely to have this problem. At some positions in the zoom range a long zoom lens may be sharper than at others. If you never seem to get photos in focus when using a particular lens, it may be a problem with the auto-focus.
When you prepare to take a photo and carefully focus, the indicators may let you know the lens has focused. Sometimes your lens might focus slightly in front or behind the point you focused on. Before you do so, set up some tests. You may not have noticed it before, Look through the viewfinder at something about 30 feet 9 meters away with a long lens on.
Carefully scroll the diopter until the view through the viewfinder looks perfectly sharp for you. This will depend on your vision and will not be the same for everyone.
How did you know? My biggest problem!!! Time to get the camera and adjust my diopter! One eye focused, one eye not. Thank you. Off to follow you on pinterest. For 7. I tried adjusting diopter, but My eyes seems to adjust for some reason. Or maybe I didnt do it properly. Your eyes should be relaxed whenever using the viewfinder, maybe your eyes are unconsciusly trying to readjust.
Another diopter adjusting trick…remove the lens completely and look through the viewfinder at a solid neutral color wall. Adjust the diopter until the framing brackets in the viewfinder are sharp.
If you cannot achieve sharpness this way, you may need to get a corrective eyepiece for your viewfinder. Thanks a lot for the tip, this actually helped me a lot, it was more clear to see the difference of sharpness through the diopter.
A good article for beginners. If I had submitted this article to my English teacher is would have come back with a lot of blue pencil and a failing grade. You will be glad you did. Waste of time. Hi Jodi. Check your manual for exact location. Great article. I realised last week while taking photos of the blue moon that I really need to adjust the diopter on my camera. Do you know — Laughterhouse — if you know so much why are you reading articles that the rest of us find useful?
Thank you so much for this post. I have recently dwelt on this topic and I am glad to see that I am on the right track improving my images. I definitely found value in the posted guidelines. Excellent article! Had to chuck half of my shots because of OOF.
Can I be presumptuous and add… use a tripod and remote release as much as possible? Sharpening should generally be the last ting applied to a photo in an editing workflow. In-camera sharpening is often worse that doing it manually in PS. Doing most of the sharpening in-camera or in RAW CAN be bad when you also intend to do it at output as it can lead to oversharpening in the final photo. Brian Whitby, being an English teacher myself, if you had submitted to me what you just wrote, it would have come back with a lot of red on it.
Camera shake: Photographer's movement while the shutter is open affects stable camera position, resulting in overlapping of the entire image. This phenomenon occurs more readily at slower shutter speeds, such as in dark situations, or when a photographer uses a lens with a long focal length.
Usually, it can be prevented by using a tripod. When you don't have one, you can minimize image blur to some extent by steadying the camera or your own body against a railing or wall.
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